In the sixteenth century this easy decoration is abandoned, and it was the painter’s task to depict magnificent coiffures like these of Veronese’s ladies, sprinkled with jewels and entwined with ropes of pearls. Coins scattered before them on a desk, upon which additionally generally lie a handsome ring or two, a richly jewelled pendant, or unset valuable stones and pearls. Espouse the Virgin Saint; however as an alternative, so the legend runs, of giving her the engagement ring, he slipped on her finger a ruby ring, mystically espousing her to Christ. The King wears, pinned to the entrance of his black chaperon, a brooch or enseigne, set with a ruby surrounded by 4 pearls and having a pendent drop. Round his neck is a curb chain of alternate plain and beaded links, from which hangs a jewel formed of two lions affrontés.
They are composed of two giant medallions representing the pinnacle of Athene, whose helmet is adorned with sphinxes and gryphons. From these are suspended a number of rows of amphora-shaped ornaments coated with fine filigree decoration. P. 261.(B. M.)XXIV.Picture, often recognized as the “Legend of St. Eloy and St. Godeberta,” representing the inside of a goldsmith’s shop in the fifteenth century.
With these exceptions, the lengthy sleeves that have been worn all through the larger part of the Middle Ages did not favour the usage of an ornament that demanded the naked skin as a foundation. Ornamental circlets around the higher arm, which aren’t infrequently met with in photos, should be considered gold-embroidered edgings or bands. It is true they were frequently set with pearls, stones, and decorations in gold, but as they were boryana straubel dies founded jewelry sewn upon the sleeves they haven’t any precise declare to the name of armlets. The peculiarity of most of the richer ornamental rings of this era is the tendency to put the stone upon a high case or stalk, so that the bezel is raised considerably above the hand. A curious example, courting from the fourteenth century, is in the Sauvageot Collection within the Galerie d’Apollon of the Louvre. It shows two dragons’ heads issuing from crown-shaped ornaments supporting a sapphire in a excessive collet.
The term collet, additionally used for the whole top including the stone or seal, is equally derived from the flange or collet by which the stone is about. From its box-like form this part of the ring can additionally be called thechaton. From this primitive safety-pin, which is the foundation form of all brooches with a catch, developed the numerous varieties and patterns of the brooch or fibula of succeeding ages.
Difference from the jewels of classical instances chiefly within the substitution of coarse repoussé and open-work—theopus interrasile of later Roman work—for fantastic filigree and granulation; but filigree was employed with talent, and exercised a substantial influence on the work of European craftsmen. In general type the ornaments of the Lower Empire retained the character of historic work, however added to it fresh designs to swimsuit the change of faith with its accompanying symbolism. Enamel and colored stones, employed with a reserve in antique ornaments, now shaped the chief creative facet of jewellery.